Meandering around Bishkek & Astana

Bishkek

This half term saw me flitting from Tashkent to Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) to Astana (Kazakhstan). Choosing these countries was easy; no visa required. Not that any of the border guards know this as I did get asked if I need one EVERY single time.

First on the plane; watching the peasants await their turn

I arrived to Bishkek at 6pm on Sunday evening with the sole intent of being at one with the Kyrgyz people. This would involve getting a marshutka (minibus) to the city centre from the airport, as I had carefully researched online. My patience with being at one with the people lasted a total of 4 minutes, or so my casio watch told me. I’d already been mobbed by the taxi drivers by the entrance, but I had assured them I am at one with the Kyrgyz and must take marshutka. Therefore, under the pretence of taking some photos, I sidled along the car park to throw myself at the mercy of the taxi drivers I’d rejected 4 and a half minutes prior. We eventually got to the price of 200 som, and I shared the taxi with 2 overexcited medic students who were insistent on giggling for the entire 40 minute journey at my foreignness and lack of Kyrgyz pizazz.

Manas airport in Bishkek with said bus that would allow me to full fill my true destiny to be Kyrgyz; had I gotten on it

My 1^st day started off with a new friend taking me to Osh Bazaar. I had been warned of the fake policeman eager to sell your own passport to you under the ruse of vigilante. No-one approached me and it seemed as if I was more free to take photos than in Uzbekistan. After accidentally circling the bazaar 4 times I ambled down чуй street to the main sites. This included waiting 40 minutes until the changing of the Kyrgyz flagpole; an event that happens every 2 hours and involves some serious leg flexibility. It was probably the highlight of my trip, even more so as one of them almost kicked me in the face as I got dangerously close to falling over the gate.

Osh Bazaar

Let me sell you some hard boiled eggs

Come into my underground toilet

We serve all your bread needs, if you like lapyoshka

A colourful array of fruits and vegetables on offer

Flexibility

Nestled opposite the Soviet circus, and Damas Hotel lies a disused casino. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, gambling became illegal and the casino shut down and raided for all it had. These days, all that remains are the vague remnants of some colourful paint on the walls and the elusive signs of what might have once been. Unfortunately it was locked around the entire perimeter so it was impossible to get inside. Also, seemingly unwatched by the police; a rare sight in these parts. Glass still lies on the floor since 2010 as the government officials refuse to recognise what it once was by cleaning it up.

Ex-casino

Writing in English; I see what you did there

Despite Bishkek being a fairly unkempt city, it hid a few gems. One of which was Sierra Coffee; a, dare I say, hip establishment on Manas Street. Colourful bike racks adorned the outside and if I’d had a bike, I would’ve felt hip using it.

Coffaaay

Aforementioned bike racks

Enjoying the sunny day with flags and statues

For 10 som you can find out your exact weight on these nifty scales

They now show movies on the local marshutkas; I watched Harry Potter on the way to the airport

Buy my wares; my van is carpeted

Astana

I was hoping for more civilisation in Astana, but trust me after 6 months in Tashkent I just wanted to stand in McDonald's and let the grease seep into my pores. Luckily, the McDonald’s had just opened in Astana and was a tourist site in itself; the 1^st one in Central Asia.

woooo

Hostel cat

Hearting Astana

Synagogue

 Wandering around the city, and there’s more of a police presence than in Bishkek. Either that, or the lads just like the ole camo gear whilst on their paintballing stag do…

Other highlights include taking the lift up the impressive Bayterek Tower that stands in the middle of the main boulevard and overlooks the Khan Shatyr entertainment centre. This centre is arguable one of the main sights and boasts a Topshop, Zara, and indoor beach. 

Bayterek monument

View of the city

Arriving back to Tashkent involved the usual hounding for a taxi. I managed to pay a very reasonable 10,000 som and I threw in my proposal of conversation of worldwide travels, trips to McDonalds and/or witty banter. We quickly came to a deal. The car park did cost him 8,000, so I felt slightly bad at his less than nifty 30p profit on my ride. I quickly got over it. Unfortunately, it came back after I got out and thought he might hit me with his car. He didn’t, therefore, a positive end to my trip.

Winter and parental visit

The winter months haven't proved too eventful in Tashkent. The winter itself has been ever elusive, with a solid 3 days of snow max. I've been moved from the PE department to year 5 where I help in a class of 9; although only we average about 7 children most days. They're all angels so we got the better deal compared to the other year 5 class of 24 children.

Rare day of snow

My parents came to visit at the start of March to experience everything Tashkent has to offer, along with a side weekend in Shymkent, Kazakhstan. They stayed in Hotel Uzbekistan on the main square, affectionately known as "the book." An old hotel, they weren't allowed to stay below level 12 as it apparently doesn't meet standards for Westerners. The receptionists there didn't decide to provide too much help; probably something to do with the 24 hour shifts they do once every 3 days. I'm sure there's logic there somewhere.

Staying in a Soviet book.

After my parents dolled out the 6 month supply of cous cous, quinoa and tuna they'd bought me, we managed to flag down a taxi to take us to the walk through border with Kazakhstan.This proved mostly uneventful and we strolled through in less than 45 minutes to be hounded on the other side by people trying to exchange a wide array of currencies and taxi rides. After assuring the men that any number above 10 would be met with a cackle and a sassy finger snap, we found a nice taxi for $10 to take us all the way to Shymkent city centre in an hour and a half. He drove mostly on the wrong side of the road to avoid potholes, and we almost careered into oncoming lorries only 50/60 times.

Monument by the park of independence

Shymkent is quite nice, and we got lucky with the good weather. The main highlight is the tulip shaped fountain. It's not really a highlight, and yet it is the main one. Luckily, I managed to amuse myself with the buying of a new phone, marginally cheaper than buying one in the UK.

The circus

A tulip fountain to attract the tourists. We were the only ones there.

After making the same tumultuous journey back to the border on the wrong side of the road, we got through with only a small amount of sexual harassment from the border guards. I'm not sure licking your lips and beckoning people over is really acceptable at border control, but there didn't seem to be a feedback form at the end so we let it go. Some more highlights of Tashkent included the cable cart around the TV tower and the red bus tour from the hotel.

Literally about to die in this car.

Enjoying the sights of Tashkent from a moving vehicle.

It's like being in London. It really is.

The main event from the past week has been the celebration of Navruz; the celebration of New Year. Traditions involve taking turns to stir a pot of sumalak for 16 hours, before leaving it to cool and eating it at 6am the next day. We kinda made it following various antics in our friends' mansion, and the winners were treated to champions pancakes the next morning.

Being Uzbek, helping stir the wheatgrass.

Losing all sense of self.

Still stirring 10 hours on.

Champions of the morning.